Hyperpigmentation is a protective response by the skin. Inflammation, most often caused from excessive sun exposure and injury, create chronic wounds along the dermal-epidermal junction. Increasing melanin formation is the skins response to this stress. As a result, excessive pigmentation occurs.
Personally, brown spots on my skin is one of the main reasons that I got into skincare. From numerous sun burns as a young child, the use of birth control pills and countless hours spent in the sun, my skin started to look much older than my actual age. I remember looking in the mirror horrified at how my skin looked and having no clue on how to help it. So I signed up for skin care school to learn how.
Treating hyperpigmentation is one of the hardest skin disorders to treat as an aesthetician. Why? Because the damage is in the dermal layer, the deepest layer of the skin, and it takes alot of dilligence and patience to see results.
Traditionally, dermatologists perscribe harsh chemicals for lightening the skin, which are toxic to the skin and body. However, natural botanicals, gentle exfoliation and dilligent sunscreen use, offer lasting results with out the harm.
In this post, I’ll discuss the causes of hyperpigmentation, and ways to treat it. After that, I’ll give you a routine to follow to both prevent and treat discoloration of the skin.
Hyperpigmentation Causes
- Excessive sun exposure. Repeated sun exposure creates a dermal wound. Normally the skin is exposed to the sun, possibly tans or freckles, then the color evenly fades back to normal. However, with excessive exposure the melanocytes clump together in a protective manner and then don’t fade back to normal. Resulting in patchy looking skin.
- Inflammation from acne. This type is called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The inflammatory process causes excessive pigment in the skin and can take months to years to fade.
- Excessive heat exposure. Heat can cause inflammation in the skin causing excessive pigment to form.
- Hormonal imbalance. This can cause Melasma, a type of pigmentation of the skin that causes large brown patches to form. Mainly caused from birth control hormones and depression medication.
- Liver damage. Caused from toxins such as, hormones from meat and dairy, food preservatives, and acetaminophen. These cause damage to the liver and create age spots on the skin.
Natural Approaches to Treat Hyperpigmentation
Botanical Skin Lighteners
Daisy Blossom Extract- My favorite botanical for lightening the skin. Highly efficient in natural skin lightening because it influences multiple pathways involved in melanin formation. Found in Youthful Glow Serum which is designed to lessen inflammation, provide antioxidant protection and brighten the complexion.
Terminalia Chebula (Haritaki)– Found in Skin Revival Serum, is a fruit extract that lessens inflammation and inhibits enzymes responsible for pigment formation.
Some other botanicals used to lighten the skin are:
- Kojic acid
- Licorice Root
- Mulberry Extract
- Arbutin
Vitamins
Three particular vitamins, A, C, & B3 are very effective in treating hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin A, Retinol
- Reduces melanin by blocking the replication of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin formation.
- Helps to evenly disperse pigment cells.
- Enhances cell turnover
- Found in Renewal Lotion
Vitamin C
- Inhibits the production of melanin
- Antioxidant that can decrease oxidation and breakdown of the skin
- Found in C- Rejuvenation Serum, Youthful Glow Serum, Restorative Mist
Vitamin B3- Niacinamide
- In 5% and higher concentrations, niacinamide can block the enzyme responsible for producing pigment and lighten sun spots.
- Found in Renewal Lotion, Restorative Mist, Skin Balancing Lotion, Skin Purifying Lotion
Alpha Hydroxy Acids- AHA’s
- Gentle use of acids and professional peels, help to encourage skin cell turnover. Therefore, pigmented skin cells are shed from the top layer and fresh healthy cells are encouraged to grow. However, overuse of acids and very strong peels can cause excessive inflammation, making hyperpigmentation worse.
- Found in Refining Lotion
Daily Use of Physical SPF
This is by far the most important step in controlling hyperpigmentation. Without daily use, the skin will be exposed to harmful UV rays and try to protect itself by producing more pigment. Even on cloudy days it’s important to wear sunscreen. Ultravoilet rays can penetrate through windows so even if your inside, sunscreen is important.
I emphasize the use of a natural, physical sunblock such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These block the suns harmful rays without being absorbed into the skin. Chemical SPF’s are toxic and will bake chemicals into the skin, causing more damage. Sun Salutation contains 25% non-nano zinc oxide for a chemical free, physical SPF.
In conclusion, patience and prevention is key in reducing hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening botanicals, vitamins and most importantly sunscreen, must be used daily and consistently in order to reduce discoloration and prevent more from occuring.
Here is my recomended routine for hyperpigmentation:
Morning-
- Cleanse skin
- Restorative Mist
- Youthful Glow Serum mixed with C- Rejuvenation Serum
- Sun Salutation
Evening-
- Cleanse skin
- Restorative Mist
- Refining Lotion 2-3 nights a week
- Renewal Lotion opposite nights of Skin Refining Lotion
- Top with C- Rejuvenation Serum