As an aesthetician, I’ve seen it over and over. Clients would come in not happy with their skin. I’d ask them, “are you exfoliating?” One of the simplest ways to improve the appearance of the skin is to use an exfoliant. There are two types of exfoliation, chemical ( AHAs, BHAs and enzymes) and physical (scrubs and polishes). Read on to find out which type is best for your skin.

Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliants are derived from alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and fruit enzymes. While the word “chemical” may sound scary, chemical exfoliants are actually quite beneficial for the skin. They work to dissolve the cellular glue that holds skin cells together. As a result, dry, dead skin cells are shed- revealing fresh, healthy skin underneath.

Used only a few times a week, they can give great results. Overuse will result in drying out and irritating the skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are water-soluable acids that are typically derived from fruit or milk sugars. The most commonly used AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Glycolic acid has a small molecular size making it able to penetrate deep into the skin. As a result, it is good for treating thick, sun damaged skin.

Lactic acid has a large mollecular size, which makes it less irriating to the skin. Therefore, it is beneficial for dry, sensitive or mature skin.

To avoid skin irritation, your selected product should have a maximum concentration of 10-15% acid with a ph 3.5 or greater, such as our Refining Lotion. Refining Lotion contains naturally occuring glycolic and lactic acid in a nourishing cream base, making it suitable for all skin types.

Benefits of AHAs

smooth fine lines and wrinkles
unblock pores
brighten the skin
lighten sun spots and pigmentation
improve skin texture and tone
increased collagen production and hydration in the skin

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Salicylic acid is a BHA typically derived from willow or aspen bark. Beta hydroxy acids are oil-soluable acids that are both keratolytic and comedolytic. Firstly, they can penetrate deep into the pore dissolving excess oil and clearing out debris. Secondly, they dissolve dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. These acids are extremly beneficial for oily and acneic as well as sundamaged skin. BHAs are also anti-inflammatory and can reduce redness from acne and rosacea.

Skin Purifying Lotion and Purifying Toner, contain aspen bark, which clears acne, reduces clogged pores and gently exfoliates.

Benefits of BHAs

reduce fine lines and wrinkles
improve skin texture and tone
control excess oil production
improve acne and reduce clogged pores
anti-inflammatory, reduce redness
typically less irriating than AHAs

Fruit Enzymes

Fruit enzymes are made from well…fruit. These are generally derived from papaya and pineapple. Enzymes are able to digest away the keratin protein in the outermost layer of your skin helping to slough off rough, dull dead skin cells. As a result, skin is left soft and glowing. Enzymes are a gentle way to exfoliate and work only on the surface, as compared to AHAs and BHAs- which go deeper into the skin. Therefore, they are suitable for sensitive skin.

Benefits of Enzymes for the Skin

smooth fine lines and wrinkles
removes dead surface skin cells
brightens the complexion
softens skin texture
gentle exfoliation

Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliation involves using a manual exfoliant such as a scrub, polish, wash cloth, or facial sonic brush to buff away the outer dead skin cells.

When using a facial scrub or polish, choose a product which only uses smooth agents such as jojoba beads or rice powder. This will result in a gentle removal of the dead skin cells. Jagged nut or apricot hulls which are commonly found in scrubs, create tiny microscopic tears in the skin that can lead to acne or bacterial infections.

Our Skin Revitalizing Scrub uses fine rice powder which is smooth and gentle on the skin. Physical exfoliation is a great option for skin that is sensitive to acids.

Benefits of Physical Exfoliation

instantly smooths surface and brings a glow to the skin
helps serums and creams penetrate deeper and work more effectively
unblocks pores by removing the dead skin cells
gets rid of flaky skin
valuable option for skin that is sensitive to chemical exfoliants

How to Use Exfoliants

Start slow. Typically it’s best to exfoliate only one to two times a week. Some skin just likes to be exfoliated once or twice a month.
Use sunscreen daily! Exfoliation removes the outer dead protective layer leaving the new skin underneath more vulnerable to sun burn and sun damage if not protected.
You can use one of the options or all three. However, not at the same time. Using a chemical exfoliant once or twice a week, then a manual exfoliant once a week, gives great results.

In conclusion, listen to your skin. If your skin becomes dry, tight, red, flaky, or sensitive, this is an indication to back off and exfoliate less frequently. Finding the perfect balance of how often your skin likes to be exfoliated is key to long term success.